#1725514 - 10/26/09 03:04 PM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: zierbox]
|
zierbox
Only The Very Best
SD Ralph Wiggum
Registered: 02/22/08
Posts: 44
Loc: Texas
|
Offline
|
|
I personally like the pioneer navigation; the graphics of the maps and easy of operation (have one in my car)
The Kenwood navigation is a Garmin system: didn’t like the way the maps looked and the Kenwood is difficult to operate
As for your Bass:
I only recommend a sealed enclosure when you have limited space
Go ported, you have the space and will get more output
W6 is a hi-end speaker (kind of a waste in a seal box inside a trunk)
W3 ported would work well and save you some cash (just a recommendation)
_________________________
25 years of Car Audio Over 20 Magazine Featured Vehicles World Championships World Records World Class New Car Audio Forum zierbox.com/forum http://www.zierbox.comtz@zierbox.com
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1725622 - 10/26/09 06:00 PM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: swanjm5]
|
keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
|
|
Offline
|
|
2A and 2B - why 4 channel vs 2 channel? flexibility and power. you can bridge for more power or go active for more control. either way, you'll always be louder than rear speakers powered from the head unit. also, if you decide you want to run fronts and rears off the amp you can. a 4 channel amp gives you at least 3 good options. a 2 channel amp gives you one option.
---
5B - time alignment is more for delaying the left speakers relative to the right speakers - which places you in the middle.
pre out voltage is usually 2V or 4V or 5V, etc. it's the signal strength to the amps. the higher the output voltage, the better noise rejection you get.
---
A. How would i know whether to use the amp ones, HU ones, or both?
which crossovers you use depends on your options and goals.
A. I was planning on running the 500/1 to a 12w6v2. Wouldn't that power the sub MUCH better? So does this apply to me?
doesn't apply. by "tweeters and woofers" i meant the component set. i call the 12w6 a subwoofer.
A. Doesn't the Kenwood DNX5140 have active cross overs built in? Which means i don't need any external crossovers? I'm looking for something a little more plug and play hopefully.
i haven't researched the DNX5140 yet
A. So a component set of speakers has an external passive cross over that i mount somewhere inside the door with the speaker? And just for a conceptual clarification: So the headunit, since it has cross over installed...will filter out certain all frequencies below X going to the front speakers. Then, somewhere along the electrical circuit will be a passive crossover that will filter out even more frequencies going to the tweeter, but all of the frequencies i allowed the HU crossover to send will be recieved by the actual speaker portion (the non tweeter part).
Thanks for your help. Anybody else have some input?
i avoid putting the passive crossovers in the doors where they can get wet.
here are some examples:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296173
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2458284
your understanding is pretty close. the head unit can have a filter, say a high pass filter, one the front RCA outputs. those go to the amp. the amp has a high pass filter on it also, so you can use this one to make the slope steeper (if it matches the HU crossover). then the amp powers the component set. but the component set has a midrange woofer and a tweeter. the passive crossovers divide the frequencies to each. most will low pass the midrange and high pass the tweeter. in the end, your tweeter gets anything above 2kHz-3kHz and the midrange woofer gets anything above the subwoofer crossover (70Hz-90Hz) and below the tweeter crossover (2kHz-3kHz).
if you go active you eliminate the power robbing passive crossovers and you get more precise control and the option for time alignment for a more accurate sound stage. this is not required for good sound, you can sound good without time alignment. you just won't have a proper sound stage or imaging without T/A (when using factory locations).
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1725629 - 10/26/09 06:11 PM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: swanjm5]
|
keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
|
|
Offline
|
|
Mount the sub amp under the passenger seat, speaker amp under the driver seat. Somehow have both of the power wires going up the driver side floor runners, with the RCA's going out to the passenger side. This is probably going to be the hardest part...having a wire go from under the passenger seat over to the driver side...and vice versa. Any suggestions?
you can remove the center console and route wires under it, under the carpeting. some cars have exhaust that is routed here, so it actually gets hot while driving. a few pieces of aluminum backed sound deader will reject heat and protect any wiring routed here.
Then, i'd look up some guide on how to run the RCA cable to the back of the head unit from the passenger side floor board.....swap out the head units..... plug it all in...
again, you can route under the center console, under the carpet.
I guess one thing i haven't considered yet is the wires from the speaker amp to the speakers themseves. I haven't really looked into what this process entails...I guess there is some sort of sleeve in the side of a door so cables came come from the car to inside the door.....and you run the wires through there? Then if that's the case i could bring the driver side's from under the carpet somehow (again, suggestions welcome).
the wiring to the door goes through harnesses. if you're lucky, the harness are just inside the car on the sides of the dash. otherwise, the harness can be attached to the door, making it more difficult to run wires, but not impossible. there are several threads here on running wires through doors. i can look for them later.
Sub is going to be rear firing in the trunk....i'll look into some guides to find out where people ran their wires from the cabin to the trunk. Also, i haven't considered how to secure the amp properly.
again, under carpet, on the sides. as far as running wires go - our Sound Domain Show Off and Team SoundDomain sections have installs with pictures.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1369669/page/1/fpart/1
secure the sub box with L-brackets and bolts to car metal.
I haven't considered where i could ground the amps with these 'under-seat' mounts. I figure some guides will have some ideas....but suggestions are welcome. I'm not super worried about the amp sticking out slightly...but i don't want it showing very much for theft reasons. As far as adjustments...it's just as much a pain in the ass to walk around the the back of the car as it is to get on your knees and go under the seat...that doesn't seem like a big issue for me. Plus...i feel like once i get it dialed in, how often will i really adjust the amps? I'm hoping it's a one and done situation.
considering the separation, separate grounds are best. ground each to the car floor. drill a hole, sand away paint on the inside, bolt the ground wire ring terminal, coat with silicone on the underside of the car. repeat. 
.maybe i should consider just mounting both amps on either side of the box? Really the only reason i was putting them under the seats was because i was worried about stuff banging around in my trunk...or rattling the amps to death.
i don't recommend that for two reasons. 1. theft is way easier. 2. you can't easily remove the sub box for some quick added storage. they won't be damaged from the vibration. you can mount amps on the sides of the trunk - see my install.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1725634 - 10/26/09 06:13 PM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
|
keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
|
|
Offline
|
|
start going through all of the Team SoundDomain and SoundDomain Show Off threads. Make sure to change the date range at the bottom and set it out two years so you see every thread.
that will be the best install guide you'll find. hundreds of pictures.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1728479 - 11/05/09 09:39 AM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
|
MainFrame
Junior Member
Registered: 08/16/01
Posts: 36
Loc: TX
|
|
Offline
|
|
Why replace your alternator when you can just upgrade it for <$5?
WRX alternator is weak from the factory. I'm not sure what you're getting out of it, but most only get 12-13 volts.
Here's a link to the mod on NASIOC:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1602651
Edited by MainFrame (11/05/09 09:40 AM)
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1728851 - 11/06/09 05:12 AM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: MainFrame]
|
keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
|
|
Offline
|
|
I read the first page of that thread, it's too long for me to spend time reading.
instead of linking the thread, summarize what you can do for $5.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1728852 - 11/06/09 05:24 AM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
|
keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
|
|
Offline
|
|
are you referring to replacing the "alt sense" fuse with a 6A 50+V diode?
you should always start with grounds. and if you do that mod you should test the voltage at full rev to ensure you're not above 15V or you will see other parts failing, lamps failing, etc.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1729414 - 11/09/09 08:35 AM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
|
MainFrame
Junior Member
Registered: 08/16/01
Posts: 36
Loc: TX
|
|
Offline
|
|
well, basically. Not replacing the fuse, but just putting the diode in line with the return wire to the alternator.
I suppose it would be a good idea to check first to see if you've got an exceptional alternator, but most people with this OEM alternator aren't seeing anything over 13.5V under rev. The mod should only net you about .5V extra, but that seems to have helped a lot of people out with dead batteries and performance issues.
Definitely should perform a grounding mod too, as these cars are notoriously poorly grounded.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1729477 - 11/09/09 10:53 AM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: MainFrame]
|
keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
|
|
Offline
|
|
so the diode introduces a voltage drop in the return alt sense line, which fools the alternator into thinking the voltage is that much lower than it actually is, so it boosts output?
the actual voltage drop varies based on the diode used. the diode will have a voltage and current rating - voltage rating should be higher than 24V. current rating should be based on the actual current the return wire ever sees. the resulting voltage drop vary based on those ratings.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
|
#1730109 - 11/10/09 03:04 PM
Re: designing my system....questions
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
|
MainFrame
Junior Member
Registered: 08/16/01
Posts: 36
Loc: TX
|
|
Offline
|
|
Exactly.. and you want to put the diode in with the arrow pointing towards the alternator, not away from. I'm not sure of any negative effects of this. Looks like several people have done it with no problems so far. I am going to as soon as I can find a Radio Shack with the right diode.
I don't know if working the alternator harder will shorten its lifespan, but if someone is already debating upgrading to a more powerful alternator then I don't see any harm in trying this first.
|
|
Top
|
|
|
|
Moderator: keep_hope_alive, IamMurph, Thumper26
|
0 registered
and 0 anonymous users online.
|
|
82754 Members
29 Forums
175105 Topics
1068743 Posts
Max Online: 754 @ 03/10/08 07:00 PM
|
|
|
