#1600672 - 02/24/09 01:08 PM
Deadening firewall
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Remobeater
SD Ralph Wiggum
Registered: 09/25/08
Posts: 64
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What is the best way to create a noise barrier for a firewall? I have a really noisy engine but I don't know where or what to place. I have a 98' Mazda Protege.
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#1600812 - 02/24/09 03:54 PM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: Remobeater]
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:rock:
fat pothead
SD I eat the big piece of chicken
Registered: 12/04/07
Posts: 7240
Loc: Rochester, Ny
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start with the floor of the car. that is the source of most road noise due to flimsy sheet metal and the lack of factory damping.
dynaliner would be a good product to use.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1345...ampaign=froogle
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#1600843 - 02/24/09 04:41 PM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: :rock:]
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SuperJay
I made this!!
Spammaster General
Registered: 08/30/07
Posts: 41602
Loc: SoCal
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there are specific products for the firewall.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com
Second Skin has the best damping and noise barrier products on the market
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#1600874 - 02/24/09 07:00 PM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: SuperJay]
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Remobeater
SD Ralph Wiggum
Registered: 09/25/08
Posts: 64
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Someone mentioned that sound damping is different than sound eliminating. So are you saying that engine noise travels most through the floor of the car? How would I apply a product to the firewall? There is too much stuff in the way to apply it under the hood and I can't really get to it through the interior. Do you have to tear up the carpet or something?
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#1601594 - 02/25/09 12:26 PM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: Remobeater]
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SuperJay
I made this!!
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Registered: 08/30/07
Posts: 41602
Loc: SoCal
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yes, you have to remove the carpet, and either remove or work around all the computers ans wiring. I unbolted everything south of the dash, and picked it up and out of the way (leaving everything connected) when I did my firewall and floor. There is an airbag accelerometer bolted to the floor at the front fo the console. DO NOT DROP OR BANG THIS THING AROUND!!!! it is very sensitive. And they are about $500 to replace. It's not very difficult to remove the carpet, deaden the car, and reinstall it. The headliner is a lot more difficult.
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#1601804 - 02/25/09 06:05 PM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: SuperJay]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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i've read some build logs where they used motor mat and spectrum sludge on the front quarters and hood. engine noise goes everywhere, including out the hood and then inside the car.
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#1601918 - 02/26/09 12:07 AM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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hamburglar79
SD Gimp
Registered: 07/14/08
Posts: 99
Loc: South Korea, Yongsan
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So how would you contain the engine noise inside the engine bay?
I got this same issue with my diesel, main noise is from the engine and not from the exhaust.
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#1602055 - 02/26/09 07:59 AM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: hamburglar79]
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Remobeater
SD Ralph Wiggum
Registered: 09/25/08
Posts: 64
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Oh another question: If you are soundproofing the doors, do you want to first put dampening on the inner frame of the door (IE where the speakers are mounted), or the outer sheet metal? I assume both would be best but I don't have enough money for all of that. The inner layer would be much harder just because you have to cut out so many little sections plus I would have to do something with the plastic sheet lining.
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#1602692 - 02/26/09 04:17 PM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: Remobeater]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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you need to do both - no exceptions. usually there are large access holes which make reaching inside easier. remember to seal up those large openings too.
also, deadener on the back of the interior door panel is suggested.
doors require a lot of deadener. anything is an improvement, but to do it right you need many layers.
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#1602773 - 02/26/09 05:50 PM
Re: Deadening firewall
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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SuperJay
I made this!!
Spammaster General
Registered: 08/30/07
Posts: 41602
Loc: SoCal
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I have 3 layers on teh outer door skin (the one that is the outside of the door, and 2 layers on the inner door skin. I used 1/8" Masonite to fill the spaces, screwed it in place, then put the 2 layers of Damplifier over it. If I need to replace a window regulator it will be a lot easier to remove the Damplifier from just the metal parts, unscrew the Masonite and remove it as one piece. To do it for easier access, you can deaden the metal, then screw pre deadened Masonite pieces to the door. I've seen this done before. The first time I did it was because I only had enough money to put a single layer on the outer skin, adn knew I'd have to get back in there
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