#1504085 - 03/10/08 04:16 PM
Current/Amp questions
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mikerizzle9
SD Newbie
Registered: 03/10/08
Posts: 8
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Okay, I'm getting into my first high wattage system, so I'm running into some electrical concerns I haven't had to deal with before.
I'm running a soundstream PCD1000d at 1 ohm at which its rated at 1k watts RMS. I'm still using 4 gauge knukonceptz power and ground wiring from my old system with an 80 amp in-line fuse. My subs are Alpine Type-R 10's each at 500 RMS. I found on another website that 4 gauge should be able to carry 150 amps and it will take about 150 amps to make my 1k watts anyways.
I know for a fact I'm not gonna get that outta my 05 altima stock alternator, and given I haven't blown my fuse yet I'm no where near my 1k watts. What can I do to test the output I'm getting? Anybody have a link to multi-meter usage? I have never dealt with measuring voltage and how it all translates, and how can I find a website which lists alternator amp output for stock cars? Also, what's the advantage of doing the Big 3 if I'm not making enough amps in the first place??
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#1504093 - 03/10/08 05:14 PM
Re: Current/Amp questions
[Re: mikerizzle9]
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SuperJay
I made this!!
SD OG Playa
 
Registered: 30/08/07
Posts: 20890
Loc: SoCal
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You need to upgrade your wiring. Use 1/0 wire from the batter to the amp 1/0 wiring from the battery negative to the chassis ground 1/0 wiring from the engine to the chassis ground 1/0 wiring from the alternator to the battery positive
This is just a beginning. Eventually you'll need to upgrade your alternator. Knu is a good brand of wire, you just need bigger gauge. This will help with keeping your voltage up at the amp.
Use at least 10 gauge wire from the amp to the subs, and a relay for the remote turn on. Now that you are getting into a higher power system, you'll need to spend more on wires including the RCA's.
The advantage of the Big 3 is that dynamically you aren't pulling maximum amperage all the time. There are capacitors in the power supply that keep the voltage regulated. Your battery is there to store power when you're not using all of it, and releases it when you need it. This should be a good start for you.
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more fun than a well oiled midget The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation with the average voter." - Winston Churchill i say somethin' stupid everyday, nothin' new  - Flattop
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#1504096 - 03/10/08 05:22 PM
Re: Current/Amp questions
[Re: SuperJay]
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mikerizzle9
SD Newbie
Registered: 03/10/08
Posts: 8
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Okay so 1/0 gauge, might as well, screw it.. Problem is that my power input for both my ground and power on my amp is 4 gauge... Is there an accessory to adapt to 4 gauge right before the amp? That seems pointless to accept all that power up to right before hooking up to the amp, or am I missing something?
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never trust a fart
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#1512927 - 17/10/08 10:12 AM
Re: Current/Amp questions
[Re: mikerizzle9]
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97P72
SD Newbie
Registered: 13/10/08
Posts: 15
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I'm a super n00b still buying parts for my 1st real system. I'm pretty sure I saw some connectors on eBay, Stinger and such brands that will solve your wiring issue. I also posted on some forums for power wire advice. I was told not to use distribution block. They rob voltage/ampre to your system so you lose total output volume. I was told to either use a trunk mounted battery as that's where my amps will be, or a cap to power the amps. I'm still researching this and not saying others don't know what they talking about. What I am saying get advice form many different sources as you can. I was going the distribution block route until I heard from others which is why we are here, no?
good luck,
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#1512929 - 17/10/08 10:15 AM
Re: Current/Amp questions
[Re: mikerizzle9]
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97P72
SD Newbie
Registered: 13/10/08
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I resent your sig! my CS name is "Ol'fart"
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#1513061 - 17/10/08 02:10 PM
Re: Current/Amp questions
[Re: 97P72]
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LanBlau
Optidriven
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Registered: 21/02/01
Posts: 3313
Loc: Lawrence, KS USA
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the cart is way ahead of the horse IMO. First of all, you shouldn't be blowing an 80A fuse with an efficient 1kw amp unless you're playing test tones at full volume.
A 1000w clas D amp playing music shouldn't draw more than 30-35A RMS at high volume - with short bursts to 100+ which are no problem for an 80A fuse. And 4 ga wiring should be more than sufficient.
It looks like your car has a 110A alt -- you shouldn't run into current problems until you get up in the 1500w neighborhood if not higher. If you're running several electronic accessories (headlights, hvac etc) it's possible the alt could reach its limit for short durations during music peaks, but you have a battery sitting there at 12.5-13v that can easily pick up the slack.
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#1523255 - 02/11/08 06:06 PM
Re: Current/Amp questions
[Re: LanBlau]
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siucsaluki11
n00b who enjoys angering the SDOT guys when i get bored
SD Gimp
Registered: 23/10/08
Posts: 248
Loc: NW suburbs of Chicago
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I had issues in my blazer for a little wile. I have 2 12" Clarions running 500 RMS each getting power from blaupunkt amps, dont remember the model numbers, theyre rated at 500RMS at 2 ohms. It was fine for a wile, ya my lights dimmed at first, but that was it. After a while it got to the point where when my stereo hit, at first just at higher volumes, my entire stereo would shut off then turn back on, head unit and all. Then it got to a point the problem came up more often and my buddy gave me a .5 farad cap, atfirst it fixed it all, but its getting back to the point where my lights are dimming and my volt meter is dropping again, back to about 11.95 volts according to the LED display on the capacitor. Im thinking of adding in another .5 farad cap, and have one hooked up in line to each amp. Also im running 4ga wire from the battery all the way to the ground.
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YOU JUST LOST THE GAME!!!! ============================== 2 Clarion PXW1251 subs 2 Blaupunkt PCA1350 amps MTX 6.5" door speakers Kenwood head unit ================================================ Comming soon, (2) RE SE15D4 subs, Hifonics amps, 6.5" component door speakers and JVC AR8500 head unit.
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