#1415356 - 06/10/08 11:01 PM
Distributed Home Audio
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 04/24/07
Posts: 13370
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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Before You Begin:
Many people like the idea of having speakers throughout the home. Having music in each room is a great way to make everyday chores and activities more relaxing. It is also a great way to provide background music when entertaining guests. I have consulted, sold, and installed many different levels of distributed home audio systems. I would like to share what I have learned with you so you can avoid the common pitfalls and mistakes that many homeowners make.
First, and most important, is to have a plan. You need to discuss what your expectations are with your contractor BEFORE any drywall or sheet rock is installed. It is important that the studs are exposed to make running wiring fast and easy. You also need to decide where the source components will be – that is where all of the wiring will be routed. Keep in mind that you will have at least one pair of wires for each speaker installed.
Many homeowners will first decide they want speakers installed throughout the home. They may visit stores or shop online and pick out the speakers they feel best fit their budget and listening preferences. They instruct their contractor of their intentions and speaker wire is ran throughout the house to each location. Then disaster strikes… the walls are installed.
The most overlooked part of distributed home audio is C O N T R O L. How will you control these speakers? That is a question that is sometimes asked too late.
Every time you route speaker wiring in your home you should bring it to a common point in each room, through an wall outlet box. You can just install a blank cover for the time being if the desire is to provide rough-in locations only (if the speakers and components will be purchased and installed later). The purpose for this is to allow for local volume control. I consider this a minimum requirement that does not add any cost to the project, but plans for the future.
Different Types of Systems:
There are four main ways to distribution home audio in your home, which method you can use depends on how it’s wired from the start. A pair of speakers will be installed in each selected location (or one dual channel speaker).
1. The most basic method is to run speaker wires from each speaker to a common location. The shortest route is usually taken and local control is not provided. At the common location a simple amplifier/tuner/receiver is placed and a speaker selection/distribution box is provided to allow for on/off selection of each room. Special attention needs to be given to the final impedance load presented to the amplifier. There are several methods in addressing this that I will go into detail on later. This is the least expensive method and also the least flexible. If you want to adjust the volume or source you need to walk to the amplifier (which is typically in a basement or living room). Everyone in the house listens to the same thing.
* There is a “cheater” option if you have wiring installed in this fashion already. You can get universal UHF remote controls that have an IR emitter base that is located at the amplifier. The universal remote can be located in as many rooms as you wish (and are willing to pay for) and it can provide total system control if properly programmed.
2. The next method is only slightly more expensive but much more user friendly. The wiring and idea is the same as above but an impedance matching volume control is provided in each room. This allows for local control of on/off and volume (to a maximum based on the amplifier setting). These volume controls are passive and will only reduce the volume in the room. For more volume you still need to walk over to your source. Again, everyone in the house listens to the same thing.
* The same universal UHF remote idea can work with this set up as well.
3. There are some devices called A-Bus which require completely different wiring than the above methods. They are active in-wall volume controls. Meaning a small amplifier is located in each control. Speaker wire is ran from the wall control to the speakers in that room (or wherever they may be located). CAT5 wiring is ran from the wall control to a central location where the main unit, or hub (which allows the wall controls to function) is installed. This “hub” can allow for multiple sources and the wall controls allow for each room to listen and control a separate source. The number of sources can be determined at a later time and upgrading is as simple as replacing the hub. These in-wall controls will also allow for IR pass-through so you can utilize the universal remote idea but they don’t have to be UHF (which saves money). Due to the active wall controls you can easily see that power is limited. Additional power packs can be added for more power (to power a sub for instance). Another wonderful option is having local source inputs available. So the speakers in the room can also play sound from a TV, radio, Ipod, etc that is in the room. This allows for even more flexibility. The local source wall plate is wired to the local wall control.
4. The most powerful and flexible system is one that is a combination of the above methods. CAT5 is still needed between this hub and the wall controls. However, the hub houses a much larger amplifier, so speaker wiring is now ran to the hub instead of the wall control. I will advise that you should still route speaker wiring to a box adjacent to the wall control so that you or any future owner can utilize passive volume controls with out any hassle. The hub will also accept multiple sources and the wall controls can be even more elaborate with total control of all the sources and components. To my knowledge, the only option that you cannot have is the local source input that the A-Bus system has. You would have to run cabling to the hub for that functionality unless a manufacturer has a device that wires to the wall control in that room.
There may be other methods of whole house audio distribution, but the four listed above are the most popular and available for a very reasonable cost.
Speaker Impedance:
Options 1 and 2 above require a device that will present a safe impedance load to the amplifier. If you do not know what impedance is or how to calculate it, please consult a local installer or search our forums for plenty of discussions on the topic. There are many commercially available products that will allow you to run several pairs of speakers off one 2 channel amp. Impedance matching volume controls are the best method of doing this and you get the benefit of separate local control. There are also speaker selection switches that have push button on/off control located at the amplifier. You want to make sure the model you choose is compatible with the amplifier’s minimum and maximum impedance rating.
You can also hard wire speakers in a series/parallel configuration. I will always recommend against this method because it is messy and complicated. It also can be prone to issues and problems if one speaker fails or is removed.
Speaker Types:
There are three main types of speakers for use with distributed home audio: in-ceiling, in-wall, and standard bookshelf/floorstanding.
Ceiling speakers are popular because they do not take up wall space and can blend into a ceiling. They are typically round and you either need to install a pair of speakers (for stereo sound) or one dual channel speaker. The main issue (from a sound standpoint) is that the music is directed into the floor. Typically they are spread out so you do not get a stereo image meaning instruments in the left speaker may not be audible when standing near the right speaker. These speakers are fine for general background music but offer up limited performance. These speakers will also direct sound to the floor above, something that needs to be considered if bedrooms are located there.
Wall speakers will offer much better performance and are typically rectangular by design. 2-way and 3-way speakers are available with up to 8” woofers for full range sound. Placement of in-wall speakers requires more consideration since they will take up physical wall space, and can create a stereo image. A listening position should be determined and the speakers should play to that location. In-wall speakers can also be great for home theater installations with a flat panel TV. In-wall subwoofers are also available. Just as with ceiling speakers, care must be taken and consideration given to the rooms on both sides of the wall. Sound will carry out the back of the speaker into the other room. Only one speaker should be installed per wall stud section. Do not install in-wall speakers facing opposite directions on the same wall – you will get a lot of cancellation from the back wave of the other speaker. You can reverse the phase of the other speakers if you feel it necessary to use the same wall to serve both rooms. That way the speakers will acoustically "support" each other.
Floor Standing or Bookshelf speakers are the most common type but not typically used for distributed home audio. If you decide to use them you will need speaker jacks at the wall wired to your hub or system. Any speaker can be used (provided the impedance is at or above the minimum rating of the hub/amplifier and placement is flexible since wire is used to connect the speaker to the wall plate. There are many manufacturers of attractive speaker wall plates. Try to avoid having speaker wire come out of the wall without a plate or outlet box.
I will be adding pictures and wiring diagrams of the different options shortly. If anyone has questions about their specific application or situation feel free to ask. There are many different scenarios and it’s important to determine what method is right for you.
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