#1369669 - 09/04/08 07:13 PM
2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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I am in the middle of the second major overhaul of this car. I got it at 95k mi. in pretty good condition. I plan on keeping it till 200k mi and since i drive around 10k mi per year i'll have it a while.
PREVIOUS INSTALL
First installation had the following
- Alpine CDA-9851
- Clarion EQS 746
- Audio Control EQL
- Xtant 403A
- Massive Audio 6.5" Components
- Cerwin Vega VEGA124
I really liked the kit for this car, i did have to modify the EQ opening a bit.
Fabricated a bracket for the two so they wouldn't sag.
Too bad my dash illumination isn't blue.
Rear seat is locked in place (need the key to drop) so this was a secure place for the rack.
Covered it in vinyl to match the interior. The factory carpeted trapezoid opening needed to be addressed though.
The speakers were in factory locations, but nothing was deadened.
I tried several sub combinations but without deadening it was empty and resonant.
This was the previous sub
CURRENT INSTALL
Now I am running/installing the following
- Alpine CDA-7930
- Alpine ERA-G320
- Alpine 3672 Active Dividing Network
- (2) Xtant 403A
- Alpine SPX-177R
- Alpine SWR-1242
The head unit needs to be integrated into the dash better. I've painted all of the interior trim textured silver and now the plastic mounting piece looks stupid.
The sunglasses holder was removed and a mount made to hold the ERA-G320 display/controller.
Built the amp rack out of 2x4's and 3/4" plywood, painted it gray just because. Filled space behind rack and wheel well with foam
Amps are mounted in place of the side pocket on the drivers side. This keeps them out of the way. I need to build a frame that will flush them up though. This whole trunk is my next project that will go on while I deaden. I will customize the whole thing, sides, floor, rear deck, everything. I was using this box at the time for testing. I hated it facing backwards.
That box was for testing, the Type-R is firing sealed into the cabin now. It is centered, the pic is just at an angle.
Front Type-X comps are mounted as shown. I need to build a custom speaker grill for the door. I left the corner on so you have to remove the door panel in order to get the grill off, and thus the speaker out.
The angle mounts worked out pretty well. If I cover or do any changes to the apillars i'll make it match a bit better.
Type-X crossovers mounted in the glove box for easy tuning. Notice the Clarion EQ isn't in this pic. For a while I ran the 9851 with the G320. The sat radio piece works without a subscription so that's why it's not integrated (plus i like the display and control). I'd like to get that more integrated soon so it's not getting in the way of passenger's knees.
Did a first pass of deadening with the mids. I have more to go back and seal the doors up for good. I used a sheet of polyfill to put between the door panel and door. I ran out of deadening before I could completely coat the door. That is the next thing i'll do.
Also did some polyfill behind the driver siliconed to the deadened outer door skin (does not interfere with window).
The rear deck is pretty empty, I recovered it and removed most of the noise producing parts. No rear speakers.
WIRING
Some shots of the wire routing. I used split loom for easy wire additions and removal. It isn't secured to the car yet since I need to deaden the floor still. Currently it is secured in place with duct tape.
I used split loom the rest of the way but wanted a pic of the signal cables contained in the split loom. Passenger side has Ai-Net cable, two sets of RCA's, and four sets of speaker wire for the front components coming out from the rear deck opening.
At the rear seats the cables split, four sets of speaker wires down passenger side, signal cables down the center under the center console.
Driver's side has power wire, remote, additional control wiring, and bass shaker speaker wire.
DEADENING
Car being stripped. I drove around with the interior out of this car, drivers seat only, for about six weeks. I was deadening, test fitting pieces, listening for rattles, etc. It was funny.
50 sq. ft. of deadening on the trunk, rear deck. I still need to do the whole floor, roof, front doors again, door panels, etc. I have 100 sq. ft. ready to go now. I will probably use another 100 sq. ft. (and that will be one layer in most areas only).
I need to come up with a cover for the side posts. I left the factory battery posts in place. Woo hoo for dual mount batteries.
Grounding part of the Big 3
Edited by keep_hope_alive (09/04/08 07:17 PM)
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#1370571 - 10/04/08 03:50 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: KLCTexas]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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the cross braces stayed put. i used several strips instead of one large sheet. I also had someone helping me keep it from sticking to the rear deck too soon. made things much easier.
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#1373174 - 15/04/08 06:05 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: cal_bot]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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i'll have one of the JL dual 12 HO enclosures (grey with red insert)soon that i'll be getting to try out. it's pretty big so we'll see if it fits.
the bass shakers are made by Aura and are powered off one of the xtant's mono channel. they wire up just like a speaker.
those bass shakers give the illusion of very fast and quick sub response. attack and decay are flawless.
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#1373285 - 15/04/08 08:49 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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elborabom
SD Ralph Wiggum
Registered: 08/04/08
Posts: 28
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Hi, can you tell me something please?
Does this AlpineŽs Type X components sound ok?
I do not know them Yet and had a huge curiosity on it...
THX!!!
_________________________
Alpine 7998; PDX 4.150; PDX 1.1000; Focal K2P 5"; JL 10W6V2; RCA Monster Pro.
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#1373329 - 15/04/08 09:24 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: elborabom]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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i think they sound good. i need to seal and deaden my doors better and then see what that does but i've got plenty of midbass with the partial deadening aleady. i've played with several tweeter locations and also adjusted the crossover many times. i've adjusted the eq and time alignment as well. i like where i'm at right now, but it's not perfect. it is improving over time though, which is nice. right now they get 200W from each xtant bridged. they play a lot clearer and louder compared to only 50W unbridged (no surprise).
the ring radiator tweeter is interesting. i need more crossover flexibility (to be added soon) in order to evaluate it more.
keep in mind they aren't expensive drivers. the replacement tweeters sold for $35, the mids for around $50. the crossover was worth more than the speakers.
with having only 5 drivers in the car (2 tweeters, 2 mids, 1 sub and not counting the bass shakers) it plays surprisingly loud and very clean. i have a few reflection issues and a couple resonance issues to address, but nothing major. the sound stage is pretty wide and i keep getting tricked into thinking i have rear speakers running, though i don't. instruments are well defined and easy to locate.
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#1373402 - 15/04/08 10:40 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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elborabom
SD Ralph Wiggum
Registered: 08/04/08
Posts: 28
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Congrats man!
IŽd like to post more of Brazilian Cars on SQ cause I think We are ok in some projects, And IŽd like to share them you you americans that I think are most of our inspiration and Our Ideas came from yours! So...
But congrats that is very good!!!
Se u!
_________________________
Alpine 7998; PDX 4.150; PDX 1.1000; Focal K2P 5"; JL 10W6V2; RCA Monster Pro.
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#1375119 - 17/04/08 02:32 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: cal_bot]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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seat is always up, arm rest is down when driving. sub fires through arm rest.
rear-facing the bass was boomy and uneven. forward-facing it was better but a bit resonant. forward-firing with it sealed to the cabin it is very detailed, clean, and accurate.
I borrow a sound meter from work for different testing. it's only a 130dB meter so i pick a volume, leave all settings the same, then move the box around. i'll do a post with the different results sometime soon. it should be informative and helpful for others.
since i was more concerned with SQ sealed forward was the only option. i tried three different boxes for the Type-R. I have an aperiodic design to try next. everything is built, i just need to put it in.
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#1375128 - 17/04/08 02:52 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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a mock up of my aperiodic design. i haven't decided on the final size of the rear opening. it will have speaker grills on both sides and filled with acoustic fiberglass. the density of the fiberglass and size of the opening is how you tune it. i've read that you want the opening half the size of the driver and equal to the driver. i'm thinking that a 10" opening might make more sense given my depth. we'll see.
the gaps in the sides was inevitable to get it into place. i trimmed that sucker 6 times until it would fit through, and it's inserted from the front. it's tucked behind the top lip. i had to remove the braces to get it in. that board has a hole in it now that lines up with the enclosure. the gaps will be sealed up for a finished product and then vinyl and carpet will provide aesthetics.
oh, and ignore the rear speakers mounted in the rear deck. they haven't been running or connected. they are bolted to the rear deck and i haven't felt like taking them out yet since they help seal off the rear deck. when i deaden the roof i'll remove them and seal the openings back up.
the box is as small as possible (without being made of fiberglass) - essentially it's a hexagon inside. a pic of the box before i cut out the rear vent, but sealed the corners.
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#1375129 - 17/04/08 02:58 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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i sealed it into the cabin by stuffing 6" thick foam between the box and the sides and braced with wood for testing. that box is tight to the floor and rear deck already, so i just had to fill in the two side gaps. the aperiodic design invovled cutting out boards that were the right size (without the side panels), then cut the side panels so they matched up with the boards. for a finished product, i'll use thin almuminum sheets, cut and bent, then deadened and fastened to the boards and sides. the factory side panels won't be used anymore soon.
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#1375140 - 17/04/08 03:19 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: cal_bot]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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the membrane will be acoustic fiberglass, supposedly the best material. you can also do a direct coupled membrane - it's coupled to the front of the sub then the back is exposed. i thought of that to eliminate taking up space in the trunk and having the magnet visible through the armrest. we'll see.
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#1375258 - 17/04/08 08:27 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: ]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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building a sealed box is not hard. the toughest part is making straight cuts so you have good seams. use 3/4" MDF, do a double thick front baffle. build it to manufacturer specs of interior volume. seal all joints, basically the heavier, the sturdier, the better. ported can sound great if done right. sealed is easy to get right.
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#1375411 - 18/04/08 05:52 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: ]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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try them all
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#1375953 - 19/04/08 05:00 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: cal_bot]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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yes, i'm curious about Aperiodic since it gives you the benefits of IB without limiting the sub/speaker selection. you can also tune it, something that is not possible with standard IB. Richard Clark did this same thing in his Grand National (different sub obviously). It's for accurate reproduction without being boomy - which is my goal.
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#1381170 - 27/04/08 12:44 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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New pics for April 26th!
I spent my Saturday going over my wiring. Some was secured, some wasn't. some was in split loom, some wasn't. i didn't like how they were routed in the trunk. I am finally going to redo my trunk. Friday night i removed all of the interior panels back from the front seats. Saturday I removed the rest of the interior panels associated with the sides and floor. The seats, the console all got pulled. I added deadening to the rear floor under the back seat. I need a layer of foam or padding under the carpet to finish it all off.
I will never compete with this car. There is no reason to go to the extent that you see with the competition cars. I used split loom wrapped in felt to prevent buzzes (felt is secured with masking tape), then secured that to the car with duct tape. I labeled my speaker wires along their run. Everything else is labeled at the ends. I opted for larger split loom to hold multiple wires at once.
__________________________________________________________________
I started by laying out my speaker wire for labeling and routing the passenger side:
^ I added some Belden 18/4 to feed Tweeters and Midranges for an active 3-way. I kept the Monster 14 AWG for the midbass drivers. They are all routed down the passenger side, in split loom that is then wrapped in felt (to eliminate any buzzing).
__________________________________________________________________
Next I went to work on the drivers side:
^I have decided to feed my head unit and processors separately. I bought five Streetwires 10AWG amp kits for stuff like this. One 10 AWG goes to the dash, the other to the trunk. Now my processors won't have to suffer from any voltage drop caused by the amps. I also ran some CAT-5 back there for future controls, switches, etc. All of that is down the drivers side with the original 4 AWG, remote turn-on, and some 4 conductor control wire. The drivers side got some deadening on the floor as well. Felt was used for any wiring in split loom.
__________________________________________________________________
Then I got creative for the HU (i've been wanting to do this for months now):
^Behind the dash I ran my 10AWG with 8AWG ground. I wired it to a terminal strip and a relay. Now my factory ignition wire runs a relay which switches from the 10AWG. I did this to totally isolate my HU from the factory wiring. Cutting, crimping, heat shrink, zip tie, repeat. I covered up the terminal strip when all was tested and working to prevent accidental shorts. It is fused as well.
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Since I already had the seats out I figured the center console was a good place to hit up:
^I also cleaned up the wiring under the center console. You can see before loom, after loom, and after felt. A portion of the routing needed to switch from one large split loom to three smaller. I have two sets of RCA's, the Ai-NET cable, and two runs of Monster 14/2. That set of 14/2 is extra and currently spare.
_________________________________________________________________
^So right now I am done running wires to the back, and they are routed where I want. I go up through the factory openings up high for everything except speaker wires. Those come through the bottom on the passenger side. While it's not necessary, all power is on the drivers side, all audio signals on the passenger or center. low level and speaker level signals are also separate.
__________________________________________________________________
I've mentioned the JL HO enclosure before, he's proof i'm not a liar:
^For fun I did a test fit of an older JL Audio dual 12 HO enclosure. Yea, just a bit big for my tastes, takes up way too much space. I did the test fit before I took all my wiring apart. It was loud as hell. I even made my hood latch rattle. I am holding this for my brother-in-law. He ran it with my Xtant 3300X and some older Alpine comps. You can see that before this afternoon i had both sets of split loom running low on the passenger side. In the trunk I had a board in place of my flat spare tire to hold my processor and changer. I will have my spare back when this is done.
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#1383379 - 30/04/08 12:28 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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:rock:
Good Times
SD I eat the big piece of chicken
Registered: 04/12/07
Posts: 7089
Loc: Rochester, Ny
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i personally like what you did with the wiring of the head unit. that just stood out to me.
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#1383935 - 30/04/08 06:46 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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:rock:
Good Times
SD I eat the big piece of chicken
Registered: 04/12/07
Posts: 7089
Loc: Rochester, Ny
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you got me jealous, i want to do mine like that now.
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#1386563 - 04/05/08 03:27 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: :rock:]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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it's freakin' easy. those 10awg amp kits are dirt cheap. i'll have something similar for the trunk mounted processor and x-over.
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#1386825 - 04/05/08 08:31 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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gibby
gibby
SD First guy voted off Survivor
Registered: 17/02/08
Posts: 369
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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Great install so far.
You seem to have put a lot of deadener in your car. How much of a difference does it make getting it on the floor/ceiling/everything other than glass. I saw you were talking about adding 150sq ft somewhere on here. How many layers does it take to where the extra weight it overkill?
I know it's car specific, but how mucho of a difference did it/will it make for your car.
Hijack much?
If you want me to start a thread about it let me know but I'm interested in how much of a difference it made for your install.
_________________________
just something else i'll accomplish...
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#1386976 - 05/05/08 06:45 AM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: gibby]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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that's a relative comment, not a hijack.
I have about 75 sq. ft. on there currently. The difference it made to the trunk and bass response was drastic. The doors were only partly covered before, and even that made a difference. I'll get them sealed up like the rest of the doors in this section and see how I like it.
my rear deck is much stiffer and silent now. that piece got a layer on top and bottom.
I'm only doing one layer in most places, and not worried about 100% coverage. i'd need another 150 sq. ft. to do two layers with 100% coverage.
using felt to silence panels is my next step and will also be a huge benefit. i'm trying to figure out what is the best material for the backs of the panels. i'll post a separate tread about that in Installation Issues later today.
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#1388896 - 06/05/08 04:24 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: keep_hope_alive]
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SubNit
T.S.A.
SD First guy voted off Survivor
Registered: 21/03/08
Posts: 985
Loc: 3rd Coast
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that's a relative comment, not a hijack.
I have about 75 sq. ft. on there currently. The difference it made to the trunk and bass response was drastic. The doors were only partly covered before, and even that made a difference. I'll get them sealed up like the rest of the doors in this section and see how I like it.
my rear deck is much stiffer and silent now. that piece got a layer on top and bottom.
I'm only doing one layer in most places, and not worried about 100% coverage. i'd need another 150 sq. ft. to do two layers with 100% coverage.
First of all, just wanted to say nice install. But what I want to comment on, is the 100% coverage thing. A buddy of mine who worked for tweeter, got sent down to a training facility for installers or soemthing like that. When he was down there, they said that placing sound deadener in spread out but specific locations achieve's the same effect as 100% coverage. Now I'm not the kind of guy who likes to half as$ anything but do you know if this is true?
Like I said I'm not near as experienced, or knowledgable as you are, I'm just asking if total coverage is necessary. This could have easily been a cost reduction method for them, but I just thought I would ask
Edited by SubNit (06/05/08 04:26 PM)
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#1388987 - 06/05/08 07:32 PM
Re: 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 - SQ attempt
[Re: SubNit]
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keep_hope_alive
in another life, i'm a serial killer
SD I Power Bombed the Undertaker
Registered: 24/04/07
Posts: 13293
Loc: Quad Cities, IL
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total coverage helps further reduce road noise and also creates a thermal barrier, something that partial coverage does not do. the added mass can and will help deaden the vehicle further. but i do agree that locating them in specific locations - like the most flat and flimsy places - can give great benefits. no need to deaden a bend in the metal that's already stiff.
thanks for the input
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